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Meet the Chef: Peter Kenney
Chef-owner, Purple Olive International Bistro
St. Augustine, Florida
Peter Kenney practically grew
up working in restaurants. Perhaps that is why it feels so
comfortable now to have his wife Deidre, who manages the
front of the house, working at his side in their family
owned and operated restaurant in St. Augustine Beach. In
fact, the two met while working in one of St. Augustine’s
favorite eateries, Gypsy Cab Co., and their shared passion
for great food and the dream of owning their own restaurant
someday brought this winning duo together. The result is
Purple Olive International Bistro, which the Kenneys opened
in 2004, a stylish yet casual restaurant featuring a unique
menu that highlights Kenney’s culinary skill while also
allowing customers to exercise their own culinary
creativity.
Humble Beginnings and the
School of Hard Knocks
Kenney has worked in
professional kitchens since the age of 15, starting, as the
best chefs do, washing dishes and bussing tables. Born in
Cape Cod, his family moved to St. Augustine when he was a
boy and this ancient city on Florida’s Northeast Coast is
where Peter discovered his second family—his mentors and
co-workers at the restaurants where he worked. Even in his
teens, Kenney was progressively working his way up the
ladder—working as a saucier in one of Florida’s premier
French restaurants, La Parisienne, and advancing to
breakfast cook at a high-volume restaurant and kitchen
manager position at another before he was 20. After a brief
move to Missouri, where he worked at Mollies Café & Bar in
Cape Girardeau and then as a pantry chef in a fine dining
environment, he returned to St. Augustine.
Making Connections and
Finding Mentors
Kenney’s intention at the
time was to attend culinary school but he landed a position
working at Manatee Café, another of St. Augustine’s favorite
local restaurants, which serves a vegetarian menu using
organic and local ingredients. Under the tutelage of
chef-owner Cheryl Crosley, Kenney began earnestly studying
the connection between food and its direct impact on health.
In the process, he formed a connection with the owners of
Native Sun, a health and natural foods market based in
nearby Jacksonville, and began supplying weekly vegan,
macrobiotic, and organic meals to homebound AIDS and cancer
patients. He rounded out his skills at this time by also
working at his sister and brother-in-law’s St. Augustine
bakery, Nature’s Bread Shop.
After seeing so many people
with terminal illness, Kenney went back home to Cape Cod for
a break and worked the summer season at The Trabbica in
Falmouth. His third return to St. Augustine was the charm
when he was hired as chef de cuisine at Gypsy Cab Co. Owner
Ned Pollack is legendary in St. Augustine for his
magnanimous personality and his eclectic cooking style. In
Gypsy’s kitchen, Kenney was allowed enormous creativity and
leeway, and given the best teaching tool a chef can
have—immediate feedback. With a core base of loyal local
customers, many who dine at Gypsy several times a week, and
a menu that changes daily, the kitchen received immediate
and oftentimes fervent feedback on whether a dish worked or
not!
And, as we know from the
beginning of this story, not only did Kenney flourish as a
chef at Gypsy Cab Co., but also met and married the woman of
his dreams, Deidre, when she joined the staff as a server.
Deidre’s parents took the couple on a trip to Italy before
they were married that they both describe as life altering.
While dining their way across the country in unpretentious
family-owned restaurants, “we realized that families are
born and raised in this industry,” says Kenney, “and that
we, too, might find a comfortable life in it.” Upon return,
the Kenneys began cooking up their dream for their future
business and life’s work together.
The Genesis of Purple Olive
After months of planning,
once Peter and Deidre found a great location—a recently
vacated restaurant site in a plaza centrally located in St.
Augustine Beach, Purple Olive International Bistro quickly
came to fruition. And, just as quickly, the restaurant
developed a following of customers, many who have become
like family as well. Offering a creative full dinner menu,
nightly dinner specials, freshly baked artisan breads, and
all homemade soups, salads, signature salad dressings, and
desserts, Kenney’s menu reflects all of the experiences and
influences he had along the way of his culinary journey. And
Kenney goes one further with a unique menu option to “build
your own plate” offering more than a dozen choices of
entrees, sauces, condiments, and side items for customers to
mix and match to please their own tastes.
Within two years of opening
Purple Olive, the Kenneys welcomed their firstborn son,
Hyde, making their family owned restaurant feel truly
complete. Two-and-a-half-year-old Hyde frequently makes
guest appearances at the restaurant and is on his way to
becoming a fellow gourmand. Maybe sometime in the
not-so-distant future, Hyde will lend a hand in his parent’s
kitchen and become part of the next generation of proud
restaurant professionals. As Kenney explains: “We found that
having a family owned and operated business is essential to
being true to ourselves and to our customers. This is what
we were meant to do.”
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